Edward Enninful reflects on Today's Society: 'A Decline in Tolerance' Than in the 90s.
A serendipitous meeting while riding the tube in 1988 transformed the path of a young Ghanaian newcomer to Britain. Spotted by a talent scout, Edward Enninful was rapidly ushered into the city's vibrant 1990s cultural landscape, evolving from model to stylist and, while still a teenager, becoming the style editor of the iconic i-D.
"That time was the peak of the YBA movement – Tracey Emin, Jay Jopling. I encountered Kate Moss at a casting," he remembers. "Then I met Naomi for a cover, and I felt we’d be kindred spirits. We all hung out across disciplines. Friday bled into Saturday into Sunday. I long for that rawness."
While Enninful may seem wistful, he is in good company. Recently, a longing look back of the 1990s has become pervasive. Yet since that time, Enninful perceives a noticeable regression. "I believe, we’re less accepting now than we were in the 90s," he remarks. "The issue extends beyond this country – it’s everywhere."
A Cultural Backslide
This change is hard to ignore: the growth of far-right politics, the pushback against progressive values, and the return of narrow beauty standards. Where once there was the optimism of the previous decade, today a more divisive political figure appears as a potential leader. Furthermore, the British flag, once an emblem of national pride, has become contentious again.
For Enninful, the antidote has consistently been to celebrate culture in all its multifaceted forms. This was the guiding principle behind his first issue as editor of British Vogue in 2017, which served as a celebration of modern Britain, including a broad spectrum of prominent faces from politics.
"People with a voice should wield it," he comments, explaining those editorial decisions. "Everyone talks about immigration; I wouldn't be here if Britain were not a welcoming country, if it refused my family a home and an opportunity. That’s the Britain I believed in. I believe this period will end."
The Younger Generation's Awareness
He draws solace in the next generation: "They are far more conscious than we were. They analyse systemic issues – I didn't even know what that was."
His formative years would define a trailblazing career marked by fearlessness and diversity. Enninful broke barriers as the first man, first Black editor, first gay man, and first disabled Black gay man to assume the editorship at British Vogue. His time featured landmark covers showcasing models of colour, plus-sized women, older individuals, and people from varied communities. Significantly, sales increased.
"When you ignore vast segments of the population, it’s not just that you’re not being inclusive – it’s a poor strategy," he states.
A New Chapter as a 'Disruptor'
He has established his creative company EE72 and its flagship publication, 72, his first major project since departing his former post. He says he wants to continue being a "disruptor".
"My nature is to challenge the status quo. I was raised in a place where Black professionals were the norm – the physicians, the attorneys, the leader. Then we arrived in England, penniless, and I was a minority. I was incredibly timid. My teachers declared I’d have no future. Me and my brothers were harassed under the suspicion laws … all that gave me a unique perspective between worlds."
Defying the popular image of industry figures as brash and highly strung, Enninful is measured in tone and projects peace. His life has included its share of challenges, including well-documented struggles with mental health and substance use.
He has also endured significant health issues, having had multiple operations on his eyes, leading to impaired eyesight. "I endured such a difficult period for two years, away from work, terrified I was going to go blind. It’s like PTSD; you just exist in a state of dread 24/7. I vowed, if this ever passes, I’m just going to do everything that I was so scared to do. I’m not going to confine myself to just being an editor or a figure in fashion."
Curating a Cultural Era
This refusal to be defined narrowly has inspired him outside the world that established him. He is now curating a major 1990s exhibition at Tate Britain, bringing together work by a host of influential artists and photographers from the era. The show, he says, aims to capture the decade's creative cross-pollination – and highlight those who did not receive adequate attention at the time.
"Institutions sometimes neglected to shine a light on the truly innovative creators because they did not have the expected background," he states.
The magazine 72 itself operates on a novel strategy, rejecting traditional advertising in favour of creative collaborations. "Our approach is, what can we create collaboratively? Is it an event, a series? The magazine is part of a broader vision."
A Testament to Resilience
Currently, Enninful is regarded as one of the world's most influential cultural influencers. His journey, he states, is a testament to the power of pursuing your passions.
What would the younger Edward react to the man he has become? He chuckles. "He’d be in shock, but he’d be proud. At that time I was a rebel. I didn't think institutions like Tate were a place for someone like me."
He reflects. "I never take anything for granted. We lost our home, we fled our country. I came close to losing my vision. So there is no room for fear. People have underestimated me my entire life. But nothing can stop me once I’ve set my intention to do something."